Awaza, Turkmenistan: the most ill-conceived resort ever built?
While you rarely actually taste the petroleum tang from the nearby refinery, it surely offsets the health benefits of the iodine-enriched seawater. Though the sea is something that the hotel staff, ever loyal to the schemes of their president, continually extol, swimming is tricky: even in June, the Caspian waters are cold.
Other drawbacks? Awaza's spanking new "international" airport only takes domestic flights; getting a visa is a feat; taps deliver rust-coloured water – and then there's the small matter that this former Soviet republic is run by one of the world's most closed and repressive regimes.
So what on Earth would bring people here?
Simon Cockerell, the organiser of the tour taken by the Britons I ran into, said visitors are drawn by the sheer weirdness of the place.
"It's ornate to the point of kitsch," Morgan said, pointing to the gold leaf and marble that is the dominant decorative style.
Other oddities include empty Paris-style bateau-mouche cruisers, a concrete yacht, spas offering treatments with powerful magnets and a riverside restaurant reserved solely for the president.
"There are a lot of similarities between the dictatorships of Kim Jong-il in North Korea and the one here – the marble, the long avenues," said Martin Gordon, another tour member.
Despite the low occupancy rates at existing hotels, there are plans to build a further 15, plus an aqua park and two Dubai-style artificial islands.
But even at a bargain $25 (£15.20) a night, sun seekers from Britain, or even from nearby Russia or Ukraine, will probably pass.
"They have this grand vision, but there's a bit of a gap," said Gordon. "They need to make a bit more of an effort with the beach if they're going to get anywhere.
"I was about to dive in and saw this great big submerged metal thing just below the surface."
Simon Cockerell's Koryo Group runs two week-long Turkmenistan tours each year taking in Awaza, the capital, Ashgabat, and other sights. From €1,200 (£1,063), excluding air fares. For details see: www.koryogroup.com/turkmenistan/tours.html
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While you rarely actually taste the petroleum tang from the nearby refinery, it surely offsets the health benefits of the iodine-enriched seawater. Though the sea is something that the hotel staff, ever loyal to the schemes of their president,
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The Several Benefits of Iodine: Are you wondering what benefits you will take in from using an iodine supplement... 
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Delange F. Risks and benefits of iodine supplementation. Lancet 1998;351(9107): 923-924. 24. Feldt-Rasmussen U. Iodine and cancer. Thyroid 2001;l1(5):483-486 ...Micronutrient deficiencies in the first months of life
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Adequate iodine intake-the good far outweigh ts the bad. Eur J 'Endocrinol 1998: 139:14-15. 211. Delange F. Risks and benefits of iodine supplementation. ...Daily Note Directory
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